來自香港的miss: 寫意人生

在無邊無際的大海中，燈塔總是默默地佇立在海角，陸地最邊陲的地方，不論晴雨，一生扮演著“現代媽祖”的角色，在岸邊給船隻指引回家的路，給人一種落寞而華麗，遺世獨立的孤單感。
這位好像在海角沉思已久的智者，伴隨著它的除了它的管理員外，就是太陽與星月。它有最美的景致，也享有最靜的時光。早陣子，有報道指英國安妮公主計劃親自登上蘇格蘭海岸的209座燈塔。雖然登燈塔不是我的嗜好，但這次旅程，燈塔確是我們尋訪的另一景點。

我們這次是按著地圖上有燈塔的標示，驅車前去，有的燈塔是很顯而易見，有的則是隱匿在叢野之間，要進進退退的才找到。有時候在地圖上看似很接近，實際卻是那麼遠，沒有確實一個地址，加上有些燈塔位於私人物業範圍（但燈塔是政府的），要繞個多少個彎才能來到燈塔下。

王子島上有不少燈塔，我們沒有一個一個把它們全都找出來，但是地圖上有標示的，我們都去了，除了以些不知道於何時消聲匿跡了找不到外，其他的我們都盡量去看看，最少去過17個燈塔，有一兩個因為不能接近，只能遠觀，不能近拍，因此沒法拍下照片來。

第二天黃昏：


這是我被兩隻極負責任感的守門狗包圍的燈塔。
Brighton Beach Range Front (height:18.4m)(Built in 1890)
Located near Victoria Park. Look for Queen Elizabeth Drive and Brighton Road (the extension of Euston Street). At this point find the lane which goes to the shore opposite York Lane. Notice how this light shines directly at the entrance to Charlottetown Harbour.Location:Charlottetown (Queen Elizabeth Drive)

第三天（島東-King County)：

下面這些燈塔，我們真正登上塔頂的只有Pt Prim Lighthouse這麼一個，其他的我們都只是在塔下附近拍照作紀念，為何只登上一個？這就是雙腿不爭氣，自從第二天早上到東部第一站Pt Prim，登上那燈塔後，我的天啊，大腿的肌肉就疼了三四天！走平路還好，一要下樓梯，雙腿就疼得要命，要小心翼翼的，姿勢就好像被包了石膏一樣！（老公真厲害，竟然沒事）事緣我在登塔之前沒有先做幾下熱身運動，看了那把又窄又斜的樓梯，不知哪來的勁兒，就這麼一鼓氣的就爬上去了。記得上次弄得如此情況是去山西大同攀那應縣木塔下來以後，雙腿也酸了整個星期。不過，不更上一層樓，如何看到另一片景色呢？



Pt Prim Lighthouse是加國唯一一座燈塔外牆是圓的及一磚塊建造的，是島上最古老的一座燈塔，有170多年歷史了！登上塔頂，小島風光一覽無遺。



參觀這燈塔時，我們碰到幾個日本遊客。我們一起先後走進燈塔裡，看到一名年輕女子獨自坐在面向正門的椅上看書，看到有遊客來到，她便放下書本，微微欠身跟我們打個招呼，向她查詢是否要先付入場費嗎，她說不用付費，不過也歡迎捐獻。於是我們便決定先攀塔，離開時再付款。我們沿著樓梯一層層的爬上去，真的是“爬”，因為樓梯很斜，又窄，不抓實梯級的話，一不用神很容易掉下來。到了其中一層是從前燈塔管理員起居休息的地方(當然那女子是不會住在這裡），家具很簡陋，就一張很簡單的睡床，一個洗臉用的水瓶及木架子，一個舊式火爐（可以燒水，冬天也可取暖），一張椅子上面掛著一件是管理員穿過并佈滿沙塵的外衣...看著看著，我可以想象當一個以前的燈塔守護員的生活是多麼的枯燥，每天的活動範圍就在這座塔子裡，沒有電視，電話，電腦，收音機，他們是如何打發時間呢？想到那名女駐守員，我心中頓生一個問題：她如何打發時間？如果沒有遊客到來的話，一天七八個小時獃在塔裡，除了看書，可以做甚麼好呢？我想還可以跟海鷗聊天，或是聽海浪唱歌。聽說現在的燈塔很多都不用像從前一樣派員駐守，而是用電子操作。

不一會兒，我們倆和幾個日本遊客都登上了塔的頂層，當我們正在欣賞從塔頂看下去的景色，我感覺怎麼好像有人在跟我說話，我別過頭來才發現原來是日本遊客中其中一個女士在跟我說話。喔！起初我聽不清楚她說甚麼，但再看看她指著我的上衣，再指指自己的衣服，我才知道原來她是說我身上穿的那衣服上的天使插圖是日本很著名的畫家所畫的，我很不好意思之前沒有察覺她在跟我說話，這我也真的不知道，好幾年前在香港金鐘廊的一家服裝店買的時候，只感到圖畫色彩很美，款式也很特別，就買下來。如果不是那位日本遊客告訴我，我還是當它只是普通的一件衣服而已。（我這個人也反應太遲頓了，人家可能已經早已跟你說話，你卻“懵下懵下”只顧看風景，人家不知道還可能會以為你沒禮貌。= =）在塔上交談了一會兒，由於塔頂地方有限，只有轉身的地方，加上是密封的，“燈芯”在陽光的折射下，實在是不能久留，因此我們請那名女士給我們倆拍個合照，就讓他們先下樓梯。

想不到，在島上的燈塔會有如此的巧遇。哈哈，離開時我還跟他們說“Sayonana”！


Point Prim (height: 18.3 metres)
Built in 1846, Point Prim is Prince Edward Island's oldest lighthouse and marks the entrance to Hillsborough Bay, at the outer approaches to Charlottetown Harbour on the southern side of the Island.

On the Trans Canada Highway, look for the turn-off to Point Prim between Belfast and Pinette. At the end of the road turn left in through the woods to the light. Some years the lighthouse is open to the public. It is the oldest lighthouse on PEI (1846) and the only round one. Its walls are 18" thick made of brick. Years after original construction it was sheathed with wooden strapping and shingles.

Wood Islands Harbour Lighthouses
This lighthouse and the two harbour lights are the first one seen by visitors to Prince Edward Island by ferry from Nova Scotia.  It make an impressive sight, especially in the evening light.

Cape Bear Lighthouse (Height: 12.2m)
Built in 1881. On Route 18, the King's Byway, get to Cape Bear. At a sharp bend in the paved road continue straight ahead, then turn off on to another paved road (a sign is located at the entrance to the lighthouse), go down to the second lane on the right. You'll find the lighthouse in the woods. There is a high bank here. Please keep a safe distance back. Location: Cape Bear


這是位於東角盡頭的燈塔。那裡可以找到一大片風力發電站。很壯觀！
East Point Lighthouse (Height: 19.5m)

Built in 1867, located near the south shore of point on Prince Edward Island. This lighthouse is one of the Island's last manned lighthouses and is one of the most popular sights on the Island. It is also one of the busiest aids to navigation stations for both deep sea traffic and the inshore and offshore fishery.

In East Point lighthouse the stairs wind up to the top of the white octagonal tower. The light station consists of a lighthouse, cottage, fog alarm, radio, beacon station, and an oil shed. In 1885, an addition was built to the fog alarm.

The light was put in operation during the winter months between 1940 to 1945 as an aid to the local Flying Schools. In 1965, there was a construction of a dwelling. It is presently running by means of electricity.

Location: East Point (Turn off King's Byway, Route 16 onto the paved road marked East Point Light. It's a short drive out to the point and at the end is a good parking lot. 20 minutes east of Souris.)


Shipwreck Point Lighthouse was established near Naufrage in 1913.

The lighthouse is visible from the highway, where the photograph shown here was taken from.  Like many others of the midday viewing of lighthouses during our summer, 1998 vacation, this one received only a couple minutes attention from a distance.  It does make an impressive sight, though, even from a distance.

也許是我們找不對地方，這兩個燈塔并不容易找，因為我們發現它們都隱藏在樹林當中，要在Fort Amherst/Port La Joye National Historic Site高地才看到它們。不過這個地方很適合放風箏，當時我們就看見有一家大小在此放風箏，自由自在。其中一張照片，當中兩棵樹中間夾著一條小路，我很喜歡。

Blockhouse Point Lighthouse

Established in 1851, located on the west side of the entrance to Charlottetown Harbour.

This lighthouse is a century old and basically as it was when built. It is the second oldest lighthouse on the shores of Prince Edward Island. The structure has not been restored. It consists of a square wooden tower tapered, with attached two-storey dwelling. Overall height base to vane is 42 feet and is 56 feet above high water. The tower itself is 40 feet in height, surmounted by an octagonal lantern on a warehouse roof. The ground floor of the dwelling was designed with a kitchen, parlour, and two bedrooms, and on the first floor with four more bedrooms and a bathroom. It became automated on July 25, 1962.

Besides serving its important function as a navigational aid on the approach to the harbour, this old lighthouse complements nicely the historical setting of old Charlottetown.

To find this lighthouse, from Charlottetown travel west on the Trans Canada Route 1 to Cornwall. Turn onto Route 19, Blue Heron Drive and follow it around past Rocky Point. Turn off towards Fort Amherst/Port La Joye National Historic Site and follow the road right to the end, where you will end up in the lighthouse yard. An excellent vantage point for this light is from the park mentioned above. At the lower corner of the park the light is visible and nicely framed by woods and bushes, begging to be photographed.

Warren Cove Range Front

To find this lighthouse, from Charlottetown travel west on the Trans Canada Route 1 to Cornwall. Turn onto Route 19, Blue Heron Drive and follow it around past Rocky Point. Turn off towards Fort Amherst/Port La Joye National Historic Site; this light is located in the park. Location: Rocky Point

Victoria Seaport Lighthouse Museum
The Victoria Seaport Lighthouse Museum is located on Water Street and housed in the second oldest lighthouse on PEI. Visit the "Keepers of the Light" exhibit which traces the settlement of Victoria and its growth as a seaport. On display are 1920's seaport navigational aids, including the kerosene lamp which was tended daily by a lightkeeper. View the harbour from the second floor or climb to the top to see the light。

Borden-Calreton Range Lighthouse Front & Rear
Built in 1917, this pair of lighthouses are age-worn but still an interesting site. There is an excellent view of Confederation Bridge and the Port Borden Pier lighthouse from the front lighthouse. Address: Borden-Carleton


North Port Lighthouse
Make your way to Alberton, located on Lady Slipper Drive, Route 12. From there look for directions to Northport Harbour. Just past the harbour you will see the lighthouse, the rear light of a range. Location: Northport


Tignish Shore Lighthouse
Lighthouse discontinued. Location: Tignish Shore (Judes Point Road)


North Cape Lighthouse
Built in 1866. On the extreme northwestern tip of PEI, on Lady Slipper Drive, Route 12. The lighthouse is fenced in with the communication tower for safety reasons. Location: North Cape

島上的燈塔，有些已不再運作，被荒棄了，有些則變作燈塔博物館，甚至特色旅店。例如以下的西角燈塔，它本身已被改修成一座旅館。塔內設有餐廳，精品店。


West Point Lighthouse

Established in 1875, located on the western entrance to the Northumberland Strait on the Prince Edward Island shore. It is situated behind dunes on a beach, readily accessible by road.

This lighthouse was built for the federal Department of Marine. With a total height of 67 feet and 8 inches from ground to vane, it is the tallest square design on the Island. There are straight flights of stairs along the east wall connecting each floor.

From 1942 to 1945, the light was kept on over the winters as a guide for those training at the aviation school.

On May 29, 1963, the light was converted to automatic. A major improvement was made in 1985. They converted the lighthouse into a gift shop and a full service restaurant that offers up lobster suppers and chowder which is a popularity there. Accommodations are also offered to tourists both in the lighthouse and in the new addition.

Only five Prince Edward Island lighthouses pre-date this lighthouse. Its position indicates its importance for vessels entering or leaving the Northumberland Strait's western entrance. It has a strong symbolic value as an important local historic site and it is an increasingly major tourist attraction.

Location:West Point (Route 14 in Cedar Dunes Provincial Park)
Hours: May 26 to September 30 daily
Season: Summer

第五天：

旅程最後一天，我們再次來到位於中西部的Summerside市鎮，在那裡的碼頭拍下一些照片。


Summerside Lighthouse Lookout and Info Center

離開Summerside,我們驅車北上，想尋找一處有特別形狀的海石，在海邊看到這燈塔，這一次我們險點兒又要落到土坑裡去。

Malpeque Outer Range Front (Height: 6m)
On Blue Heron Drive, Route 20, turn off at Darnley towards Profitts Point. This light is located among cottage lots near the shore.  Location: Malpeque



曾經在網上看到這樣一篇關於燈塔的文章：

    季節變換很快，就像天上被風吹得如趕路般的雲。季節的變換意味著時間在推移……。

    不過，時間的推移對於我來說毫無意義，因為我在這世界盡頭的燈塔之上已經不知道守護了多少年，而且也不知道還會守護多少年，也許，會是永遠。

    我總是抬著頭看雲，這些雲是我唯一的朋友——這些不知從什麼地方流浪來的，又不知會流浪到什麼地方去的雲，會給我帶來遠方的消息並把我的消息帶到遠方。這些雲的流浪創造了這世界的生命並且維系著生命的延續。

    不過，今天遠處海面上出現的一條船轉移了我的注意，這是一條迷路的船，每隔幾百年總會有迷失的船來到這個天涯海角。我要去執行我的責任，完成我的工作了。

    我通過這特殊的燈塔指引他們靠近我的小島，船長帶著幾個船員卸下小船劃了過來。

    “這是什麼地方？”船長一上岸就迫不及待並且極其疑惑的問道。

    “這裡是世界的盡頭，人類世界和其他奇妙世界的邊境。”

    “世界的盡頭？我們怎麼會到這裡來了？”

    “你們肯定是迷了路，在生命的汪洋中迷失了方向，來到了這不該來的地方。”

    “我不相信，我的方向沒錯，我要繼續前進，請你把你的小島挪開吧。”

    “不行，小島的後面就是地獄，你在那裡除了能直接掉進地獄而外，找不到其他的路。小島就是這兩個世界的碑碣，我的責任就是讓迷路的人趕快返回。”

    “不可能，我不相信。”

    這樣的情況我很熟悉，每次迷路來到這裡的人聽了我的解釋都會不相信，因為他們不願意承認自己千辛萬苦、不遠萬裡前進的方向是錯誤的，最終來到的不過是不該來的地方而已。

    於是，我只有帶他們去親眼看看。

    我帶著他們穿過小島中間的樹林。小島上是初冬季節，刺人肌膚的冷風像針一樣吹打著人們的臉，樹枝上已經沒有綠葉，樹干活像失去了靈魂的軀殼擺出各種怪異畸形的姿勢，地上鋪滿了落葉的屍體，人們從上面走過發出了劈劈啪啪的聲響，人們踩斷了它的脊梁……。

    我們來到小島的另一端，船長和他的船員被眼前的景像所震撼。前方已經沒有路，遠處不過是一片令人發眩的虛無，下面則是一個無窮大的深淵，深淵底部就是地獄。地獄之上是熔漿和火海，火海裡有無盡被煎熬和懲罰的靈魂，發著攝人心肺的凄慘叫喊，火海之上則飛舞著各種怪模怪樣的魔鬼，手裡拿著長鞭和利劍，興奮的抽打和刺殺著火海裡掙扎的靈魂。

    海水到這裡全都一下子傾泄到深淵裡，不過傾泄時發出的震耳欲聾的巨響也蓋不住從地獄底部傳來的那些無窮無盡受折磨的靈魂的慘叫聲。即便是這無以數計的海水往深淵傾灌，也無法和地獄那恐怖的高溫相比，海水還沒接觸地獄的地面便被蒸發，化作蒸汽升向天空。然而海水正是被這可怕的高溫蒸發，化作雲，飄向遠方，然後又在某處降下回到大海，完成不可思議的循環！

    船長和他的船員們被這景像嚇得目瞪口呆。曾經有脆弱的人被這暴戾和奇妙的景像所擊潰直接跳進了無盡的地獄深淵……。

    終於，他們相信了我的話，明白了我的好意。

    我領著他們回到了燈塔下，讓他們來到我的小屋，讓他們在我的小屋裡面休息。我把我釀的酒給他們喝，把我種的葡萄給他們吃，但是喝了酒的人黯然落淚，吃了葡萄的人呆呆的凝視著遠方。

    船長問我：“這是什麼酒？”

    我回答：“這是孤獨酒。”

    船長問我：“這葡萄叫什麼名？”

    我回答：“這叫寂寞葡萄。”

    船長問完便默默的喝著酒、吃著葡萄，也許總是在浩瀚的汪洋上漂泊的海員了解其中的深意，不用多問。

    我送船長和他的船員們來到他們的小船邊。

    船長對我說：“謝謝你，如果沒有你，我們將可能掉進萬劫的深淵。”

    “不用謝，這就是我在這裡的職責。”

    船長頓了頓，說道：

    “沒關系，從來沒有人回來過。”

    我目送小船遠去，然後登上燈塔，再次用這特殊的燈塔指引他們離開這片危險的海域，直到他們的船越變越小最終和海平面融為一體。

    我莫莫的抬起頭，繼續看天上被風吹去流浪的雲，下個因迷路而到來的訪客，不知要過幾百年了！

    ……