March 19,2006
時尚雜誌與文化工業的厚度
看到Jerry分析男性雜誌《Esquire》日本版、美國版及繁體中文版的差異，覺得太有趣了。
舉例而言，在台灣，Esquire、GQ、FHM、marie claire、COSMOPOLITAN、VOGUE、BAZZAR，這些雜誌都被歸類在同一個模糊籠統的通稱：「時尚雜誌」。前三種是男性時尚雜誌；後四種則是女性時尚雜誌，除此以外，你難以分辨出它們的不同。
但是在美國不是這樣子的，這些雜誌各有各的風格，各有各的客層，區別顯而易見，話題、立場和筆調有很明顯的區隔。不像它們的台灣繁體中文版，一片模糊。
這些雜誌到了台灣會變成這樣，很大一部分的原因，是這些雜誌在台灣所剩的功能僅有＂fashion＂一個面向而已。若翻閱這些雜誌的美國版及英國版，fashion其實只佔了很小一部份，可能不到30%，其他70%是生活或文化的層次，很多的軟性新聞和專題報導，例如兩性關係、家庭問題、生涯規劃、生活情趣等等。很多並非居住在美國大城市的婦女，這些雜誌甚至是她們學習主流文化的管道。
然而，這些fashion以外的功能，在台灣被電視談話性節目、報紙、甚至網路給取代了，台灣女性不期待時尚雜誌來教她們這些事。這使得這些時尚雜誌真的只有時尚而已。然而，它們的「時尚」功能還不如日系服裝雜誌呢：日系服裝雜誌（ViVi、Ray、ef、With），羅列每季服裝的流行要素及上市價格，把時尚變成一種操作性概念，可以精細拆解、準確執行，實用許多。（我自己就是 ef和ViVi派的）
這是女性雜誌的部份。要是男性雜誌，的確就如Jerry所言，台灣的男性雜誌想把重點放在性文化，但是揮灑不開，（儘管台灣FHM繁體中文版已經創造出獨特的幽默風格），但整體來說還是在高調（FHM及Esquire美國版）與低調（AV女優？）性感間進退失據，結果弄得都好像十幾歲過動青少年拿性笑話起鬨的程度。
我是同意Jerry的結論的：『對照美日版本，台港版的《Esquire》無意中透漏出「華人男性文化」底層的淺碟子，難怪上層的男人政治戲碼一直這麼難看。勉強編輯們「無米之炊」或許也不是解決的辦法。「兩岸三地」的男人們還是多加點油，拼點「文化」吧！ 』 或許整體來說，女性時尚雜誌揭示的困境也沒有好到哪裡去。如果文化真的有厚度的話，那麼分眾和分群的傾向應該更明顯。而我們即使是從談話性節目和報紙家庭版也看不到那樣的東西。一方面也有點感慨，台灣的寫作者的稿酬一向比不上美國。大家最愛提的（爛例子）就是Carrie幫Vogue寫專欄，一字稿酬可是四美金。但是，如果因此而感嘆台灣寫作者得不到合理報酬，倒不如說，這些美國版雜誌上的文字可是牽動到一個社會的文化、認知及消費習慣，所能創造的利益可是比繁體中文版多太多了。這或許就是稿費的「效率市場」吧。
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艺术源于生活，生活就是这个样子，写作素材自然也从中索取。
与其说要让艺术领导生活，不如说生活创造艺术。
与其说要让艺术领导生活，不如说生活创造艺术。
Posted by gaohan_cn
at March 20,2006 06:13
原來國外的時尚雜誌有這樣子的內容!台灣的時尚雜誌..我翻了幾次都是千篇一律,風格差異不大的照片,和輕到不行的人物專訪..然而,據說仍然是東南亞國家抄襲的範本...這點不知道有沒有人討論過?
Posted by 小杜白雲
at March 20,2006 13:37
其實我在這裡深潛很久了，
今天看到這個有意思的主題，
容我也來多嘴一下。
如果我記得沒錯，許多在日本頗有聲譽的作家，都幫當地女性雜誌寫過專欄，例如村上龍的「69」就是集結「more」雜誌上的小說連載。村上春樹許多短篇小說也是的。所以，可別以為在東京電車上翻女性雜誌的日本妹都是腦袋空空，因為她們有腦袋不空的雜誌產業。
老牌男性情色雜誌「花花公子」在美國嬉皮年代曾是當時解放言論的大本營，「它的供稿作者與任何英文媒體相比毫不遜色，
有諾貝爾作家馬逵斯、美國作家約翰艾普戴克、寫「蘿莉塔」的納博科夫、是紐約客這等文藝雜誌也會驚豔的名單，」這是Time雜誌給的評論。台灣不管是男性、女性雜誌都沒嘗過這種解放身體又解放頭腦的高潮吧。
最後評台灣作者為何不能同紐約carrie寫稿能拿四美金的那段，說得真好。人家的言論延燒能力之強，讓所有我去過的歐亞非機場書店都得來個一本她寫的單行本小說（要不然就是達文西密碼）。別光是羨慕英語優勢，想想背後掀起的都會慾女言論風暴，再想想台灣作者每一篇文章能轉出多少漩渦，真是望塵莫及。
今天看到這個有意思的主題，
容我也來多嘴一下。
如果我記得沒錯，許多在日本頗有聲譽的作家，都幫當地女性雜誌寫過專欄，例如村上龍的「69」就是集結「more」雜誌上的小說連載。村上春樹許多短篇小說也是的。所以，可別以為在東京電車上翻女性雜誌的日本妹都是腦袋空空，因為她們有腦袋不空的雜誌產業。
老牌男性情色雜誌「花花公子」在美國嬉皮年代曾是當時解放言論的大本營，「它的供稿作者與任何英文媒體相比毫不遜色，
有諾貝爾作家馬逵斯、美國作家約翰艾普戴克、寫「蘿莉塔」的納博科夫、是紐約客這等文藝雜誌也會驚豔的名單，」這是Time雜誌給的評論。台灣不管是男性、女性雜誌都沒嘗過這種解放身體又解放頭腦的高潮吧。
最後評台灣作者為何不能同紐約carrie寫稿能拿四美金的那段，說得真好。人家的言論延燒能力之強，讓所有我去過的歐亞非機場書店都得來個一本她寫的單行本小說（要不然就是達文西密碼）。別光是羨慕英語優勢，想想背後掀起的都會慾女言論風暴，再想想台灣作者每一篇文章能轉出多少漩渦，真是望塵莫及。
Posted by 雷朵
at March 20,2006 17:12
我比較覺得美國版雜誌上的文字是牽涉到"全世界"的消費認知和生活, 市場大所以潛在利潤大
有一次我耍白痴問朋友,為何英國的學術書籍這麼有市場, 有這麼多專門出版學術書籍的出版社, 她回我一句: 廢話, 英國學術書籍可不只在英國內流通,仗著英語和學術霸權, 那是世界市場.
有一次我耍白痴問朋友,為何英國的學術書籍這麼有市場, 有這麼多專門出版學術書籍的出版社, 她回我一句: 廢話, 英國學術書籍可不只在英國內流通,仗著英語和學術霸權, 那是世界市場.
Posted by wendelin
at March 20,2006 22:37
”老牌男性情色雜誌「花花公子」在美國嬉皮年代曾是當時解放言論的大本營”
印象中，小時候偷翻父親從美國帶回來的原版花花公子，驚訝地發現，要讓自己嗨起來，竟然會受到那麼多文字的阻礙ＸＤ
印象中，小時候偷翻父親從美國帶回來的原版花花公子，驚訝地發現，要讓自己嗨起來，竟然會受到那麼多文字的阻礙ＸＤ
Posted by waylim
at March 21,2006 07:31
其實我也在這裡潛水很久了
看到這個題目也忍不住腳癢要踩一下腳印~~
我以前在一本台灣唯一的"純"表演藝術類雜誌工作，所謂純，指的是這本雜誌完全不為任何演出單位或演出者做宣傳跟廣告，甚至行銷策略與廣告商等等，幾乎是零。所有的內容都是編輯們以自己的專業眼光判斷，真心認為需要談論、需要披露與報導的節目。
在沒有廣告收入與行銷策略之下，雜誌幾乎"無收入"，長期訂戶不到六百，每月在唯一的書店通路上架兩千本(還賣不完)
這樣維持了十多年，這本雜誌的編輯們也許上不具有革少說的：可牽動到一個社會的文化、認知及消費習慣，但卻是表演藝術界的指標。
但是稿費也不及言情小說的作者們。
前年，這本雜誌的接手者，認為雜誌這麼稀少的訂戶原因出在內容"不大眾"，於是現在，他也變成了一本"時尚雜誌"，主事者要將藝文活動包裝成"時尚"，認為這樣才能帶動社會大眾更走入劇場音樂廳等。
他的實驗應該是失敗的，雖然訂戶有稍稍多了一點，但是以前將之視為指標的那個生態圈卻已經完全把這本雜誌當作宣傳的途徑，因為每一頁都可以談廣告，甚至可以登演出團體自己撰寫的新聞稿。
稿費有增加，但是文章卻沒份量，這是這本雜誌目前的狀態，主要原因還是因為決策者認為"這種文章只要讀起來有趣就好"，所以誰都可以寫。
撇開英文的優勢不管，放眼望去台灣的各類雜誌，多少作者貧乏得緊?卻每個月擠出一篇又一篇的專欄?除了專欄還有新書導讀、電影介紹、甚至連音樂聽的音樂會導讀都會想要邀請吳淡如!!! (sorry, 我太激動了 >"< )
反過來說，我們的讀者也未免太懦弱了，我比較覺得這種現象是身為讀者的我們縱容出來的。常常因為作者的名氣大，就以為覺得文章不好是自己沒眼光似的....
總之，還是很羨慕四元美金的稿費，不過，台灣公家公定稿費是每字八毛，這令人氣短之餘，只好自我安慰趁年輕多做點功德也好.....
看到這個題目也忍不住腳癢要踩一下腳印~~
我以前在一本台灣唯一的"純"表演藝術類雜誌工作，所謂純，指的是這本雜誌完全不為任何演出單位或演出者做宣傳跟廣告，甚至行銷策略與廣告商等等，幾乎是零。所有的內容都是編輯們以自己的專業眼光判斷，真心認為需要談論、需要披露與報導的節目。
在沒有廣告收入與行銷策略之下，雜誌幾乎"無收入"，長期訂戶不到六百，每月在唯一的書店通路上架兩千本(還賣不完)
這樣維持了十多年，這本雜誌的編輯們也許上不具有革少說的：可牽動到一個社會的文化、認知及消費習慣，但卻是表演藝術界的指標。
但是稿費也不及言情小說的作者們。
前年，這本雜誌的接手者，認為雜誌這麼稀少的訂戶原因出在內容"不大眾"，於是現在，他也變成了一本"時尚雜誌"，主事者要將藝文活動包裝成"時尚"，認為這樣才能帶動社會大眾更走入劇場音樂廳等。
他的實驗應該是失敗的，雖然訂戶有稍稍多了一點，但是以前將之視為指標的那個生態圈卻已經完全把這本雜誌當作宣傳的途徑，因為每一頁都可以談廣告，甚至可以登演出團體自己撰寫的新聞稿。
稿費有增加，但是文章卻沒份量，這是這本雜誌目前的狀態，主要原因還是因為決策者認為"這種文章只要讀起來有趣就好"，所以誰都可以寫。
撇開英文的優勢不管，放眼望去台灣的各類雜誌，多少作者貧乏得緊?卻每個月擠出一篇又一篇的專欄?除了專欄還有新書導讀、電影介紹、甚至連音樂聽的音樂會導讀都會想要邀請吳淡如!!! (sorry, 我太激動了 >"< )
反過來說，我們的讀者也未免太懦弱了，我比較覺得這種現象是身為讀者的我們縱容出來的。常常因為作者的名氣大，就以為覺得文章不好是自己沒眼光似的....
總之，還是很羨慕四元美金的稿費，不過，台灣公家公定稿費是每字八毛，這令人氣短之餘，只好自我安慰趁年輕多做點功德也好.....
Posted by Martius
at March 21,2006 11:29
是的,我完全贊成wendelin,美國版所意味的可是[世界市場],自然利益高多了
對照於Martius提出的台灣貧乏現實,
我只是想說,這就是稿費的強式效率市場阿,
價格已經反應了所有合理資訊,
台灣稿費會低,不是沒有道理的
在譴責市場機制之前,不如先想想要怎麼辦
如果中文版意謂的是中文閱讀人口,
那麼,市場不應該小才對
所以癥結是?...
對照於Martius提出的台灣貧乏現實,
我只是想說,這就是稿費的強式效率市場阿,
價格已經反應了所有合理資訊,
台灣稿費會低,不是沒有道理的
在譴責市場機制之前,不如先想想要怎麼辦
如果中文版意謂的是中文閱讀人口,
那麼,市場不應該小才對
所以癥結是?...
Posted by 革少
at March 21,2006 17:22
還有,雷朵和walim所提的,
同一本雜誌裡,上下半身的分裂
其實我們也有很好的例子了
就是壹周刊,
用每月八萬台幣的高薪請張五常,劉大任,張惠菁,駱以軍寫專欄
我認為這就是壹周刊符合[國際規格]的地方....
同一本雜誌裡,上下半身的分裂
其實我們也有很好的例子了
就是壹周刊,
用每月八萬台幣的高薪請張五常,劉大任,張惠菁,駱以軍寫專欄
我認為這就是壹周刊符合[國際規格]的地方....
Posted by 革少
at March 21,2006 17:55
我挺好奇的是，如果JERRY所列的雜誌是給日本中年男人看的話，那麼，台灣的中年男人都看什麼雜誌呢？
Posted by 豬小草
at March 22,2006 20:18
我想台灣的中年男人應該是看壹周刊吧！
又,Martius所提的雜誌我大概知道是哪一家
我覺得台灣文化人有一點很奇怪
就是不知道何謂利基市場
很愛去學「大眾口味」
但根本又學不像抓不好
變成無價值的媚俗（而且也沒有媚到俗）
連原來的利基都流失掉了
又,Martius所提的雜誌我大概知道是哪一家
我覺得台灣文化人有一點很奇怪
就是不知道何謂利基市場
很愛去學「大眾口味」
但根本又學不像抓不好
變成無價值的媚俗（而且也沒有媚到俗）
連原來的利基都流失掉了
Posted by 革少
at March 22,2006 23:31
這篇寫得真的太好了
台灣所謂的"時尚"之淺碟與空洞，不過是媒體一窩蜂並且操弄諸多活在一元文化下較無機會接觸其他文化者的符號
台灣所謂的"時尚"之淺碟與空洞，不過是媒體一窩蜂並且操弄諸多活在一元文化下較無機會接觸其他文化者的符號
Posted by daben
at April 4,2006 23:34
我也很喜歡看這種雜誌 只是膚淺的我只想看上面的照片而已
影像是一種奇遇
壹週刊是上下半身分裂的最好例子
I can't agree with you anymore.
也許這是一種在世界上生存最好的策略
影像是一種奇遇
壹週刊是上下半身分裂的最好例子
I can't agree with you anymore.
也許這是一種在世界上生存最好的策略
Posted by beagle2001
at June 28,2006 18:04
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或許，當我坐在Coffee Shop裡讀著日版Equire時，會獲得比較多"青睞"吧？
當兩本刊物都有著相同的廣告主與讀者族群時，試問要如何拉開其中的差異性？另外，Jerry文中提到台版GQ與台版Esquire相似？我倒不這麼認為。
這也讓我私自認為，前面幾位發言者大概都比較少涉獵這些所謂"標榜時尚但內容空洞"的大眾刊物吧？
至於日本的出版界，高下之分天差地遠，端看從何角度觀察，不見得照本宣科，就能取得真經。
日系雜誌總有些令人為之神眩的魅力，或許較為契合諸位文藝知青的所好，但絕大多時間，我只想找一本可以打發時間，又可以一看再看的刊物──從這個標準看來，我對日版與港版Esquire的差異性，似乎感受不大。
或許，當我坐在Coffee Shop裡讀著日版Equire時，會獲得比較多"青睞"吧？
當兩本刊物都有著相同的廣告主與讀者族群時，試問要如何拉開其中的差異性？另外，Jerry文中提到台版GQ與台版Esquire相似？我倒不這麼認為。
這也讓我私自認為，前面幾位發言者大概都比較少涉獵這些所謂"標榜時尚但內容空洞"的大眾刊物吧？
至於日本的出版界，高下之分天差地遠，端看從何角度觀察，不見得照本宣科，就能取得真經。
Posted by Keith
at December 25,2006 18:08
我以為是下列原因造成的:
立場、專業深度、利基、行銷、心態和國民性格.
個人曾經在中時浮世繪夏主編的部落格談＜天下＞三十年的感想時,討論這個問題,文中我以自己訂閱超過十年的＜經濟學人＞對照＜天下＞，其中有句話茲引述如下：
“在Bill Emmott擔任總編輯的13年內，銷售量增加一倍，從50萬增加到超過100萬，叫好又叫座。”
原文甚長，有興趣的朋友可連結閱讀，並指教：
＜天下＞＜中時＞面對新時代挑戰：http://blog.roodo.com/perspectives/archives/1741224.html
立場、專業深度、利基、行銷、心態和國民性格.
個人曾經在中時浮世繪夏主編的部落格談＜天下＞三十年的感想時,討論這個問題,文中我以自己訂閱超過十年的＜經濟學人＞對照＜天下＞，其中有句話茲引述如下：
“在Bill Emmott擔任總編輯的13年內，銷售量增加一倍，從50萬增加到超過100萬，叫好又叫座。”
原文甚長，有興趣的朋友可連結閱讀，並指教：
＜天下＞＜中時＞面對新時代挑戰：http://blog.roodo.com/perspectives/archives/1741224.html
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