趁著夏天的尾巴再做點莓果點心解饞,可沒想這個雜果包包烤出來竟像棵聖誕樹?

麵包體的部分參考Jeffery Hamelman  書中 Ciabatta  的配方跟做法.

包包上的果果跟沙菠蘿(streusel)則是參考Julia Child 的baking with Julia .  Julia 媽媽說包包上的果果就依季節做變化,比如說 現在正登市的西梅或葡萄,也會很可口的.

Recipe: Thom Leonard’s Country French Bread from Artisan Baking by Maggie Glazer

Ingredients:  Fermented Levain, Bread Flour, Whole Wheat Flour, Rye Flour, Water and Salt

進步了嗎？有.

還漂亮嗎？　嗯，比上回好. 不過整型還得再練，割紋也要加強，想看到更好的耳朵．

香嗎？出爐後，就聞到陣陣麥香．跟著聽到陣陣悅耳地”crack crack”裂聲,就當是給自已的獎勵.

味道好嗎？好極了，比單一的白麵麵包，味道更豐富且深沈．

會再做嗎？當然，因為它是個好吃的麵包．

Cherry Walnut Bread

Adopted Recipe : Bread Cetera

Learning Lessons:

• White Wheat Flour + Bread Flour
• Medium Rye Flour
• Retard the dough
• Shaping
• Bread Cooling
• Taste and Favor of  this bread

     V 的牙套終於取下, 真的不一樣, 嬌正過的牙,真的美好多 .  以後我隨時都更可以放心的做歐包, V能盡情的品嚐了.

Pain de Beaucaire (1,2)_First Trail

Adoped Recipe :  Advanced Bread and Pastry by Michel Suas

Great Discussions:  (1) , (2) , (3) , (4)
Learning Lessons:

• 40%  Liquid sour dough starter
• Shaping
• Bake at 480F for first 25mins 460F for the next 15 mins
• Bread Cooling
• Taste and Favor of this bread

    儘管這個麵包的外型沒做成功,但是個很好棒的麵包,我們全家都投贊成票. 外型沒做好的原因,我覺是我畫蛇添足,又塗麵糊水,又灑wheat bran,結果全黏在一塊,麵包的最表面該分開,所以縱切面會又一個自然的凹型.  下回我要試試別法,希望能把問題解決.

Adoped Recipe :  Mamamom's Bakery_全麥麵包

Learning Lessons:

• 20%  Liquid sour dough starter
• Use Panela sugar
• Autolyse
• 2 * French Fold
• Shaping
• Bake at 425 for around 40-45 mins
• Bread Cooling
• Taste and Favor of this bread

Recipe : TFL_dmsnyder, TFL_ehanner
Learning Lessons:

• Liquid sour dough starter
• French Fold
• Retard the dough
• Shaping
• Bread Cooling
• Taste and Favor of this bread

Adopted Recipe : Anis Bouabsa

Learning Lessons:

• 20%  Liquid sour dough starter
• 50%  Stone ground whole wheat flour
• 70%  hydration
• Retard the dough
• Shaping
• Bread Cooling
• Taste and Favor of  this bread

50% whole wheat Baguettes

Adopted Recipe : Anis Bouabsa

Learning Lessons:

• 40%  Liquid sour dough starter
• 50%  Stone ground whole wheat flour
• 70%  hydration
• Retard the dough
• Shaping
• Bread Cooling
• Taste and Favor of  this bread

Golden Raisin Bread

Recipe : Bread A Baker’s Book of Techniques and Recipes by Jeffery Hamelman

Learning Lessons:

• Liquid sour dough starter
• Retard the dough
• Shaping
• Bread Cooling
• Taste and Favor of  this bread

Swiss Rye

Learning Lessons:

• 溫故知新
• rye liquid starter
• Shaping
• Bread Cooling
• Taste and Favor of  this bread

Pain au Levain

Learning Lessons:

• 溫故知新
• sour_dough stiff starter
• Shaping
• Taste and Favor of  this bread

Pain de Campagne (Country Bread)

Adopted Recipe: Advanced Bread and Pastry by Michel Suas

Learning Lessons:

• sour_dough starter
• 95% Bread Flour + 5% Stone ground Rye Flour
• Shaping

Vermont Sourdough with Whole Wheat

Adopted Recipe: Bread ,A Baker Book of Techniques and Recipes by Jeffrey Hamelman

Learning Lessons:

• sour_dough starter
• 90% Bread Flour + 10% Stone ground Whole Wheat Flour
• Shaping & Scoring

Adopted Recipe: The Bread Baker’s Apprentice by Peter Reinhart

Learning Lessons:

• sour_dough starter
• 50% Sir Galahad Artisan Flour + 50% AP Flour
• Shaping & Scoring

Adopted Recipe: The Bread Baker’s Apprentice by Peter Reinhart

Learning Lessons:

• Pre_ferment
• 50% Sir Galahad Artisan Flour + 50% KA bread flour
• Shaping

Recipe:  Eric’s Fav Rye

Learning Lessons:

• Rye flour
• First Clear Flour
• Shaping
• Slashing

Recipe:  Wild Yeast

Learning Lessons:

• Semolina flour
• Shaping

Recipe:  BBA by Peter Reinhart

Learning Lessons:

• Semolina flour
• Shaping

100% Semolina Sandwich Loaf

Recipe:  Local Breads by Daniel Leader

Learning Lessons:

• Semolina flour
• Shaping

Bagel 的表親_Bialy (1),(2)

Adopted Recipe: Artisan Baking by Maggie Glazer

Learning Lessons:

• Sir Lancelot Hi-Gluten Flour
• Shaping

這個乍看像冷油條的法包_Pain a ĺAncienne(first trail)

Adopted Recipe: The Bread Baker’s Apprentice by Peter Reinhart

Learning Lessons:

• Pre_ferment
• Sir Galahad Artisan Flour
• Shaping

初試這款麵粉,因不諳其吸水性,這次的麵團就有點過濕而在分割就變得困難,很容易就會將麵團給消氣. 而且幾乎沒法割花(scoring),但這樣的麵粉烤出的麵包真得又跟一般的高粉烤出的口感不同,皮更感脆,有點chewy 但又不會太過, 但得再多試幾款後,才能真的嘗出分別之處.

Adopted Recipe : Norm’s Onion Roll
Learning Lessons:

• Starter
• Sir Lancelot Hi-Gluten Flour

老少都愛，真的會一下子就吃光的噢！　不信就做點來嘗唄．

Adopted Recipe : Whole Grain Bread by Peter Reinhart
Learning Lessons:

• 53% Whole Wheat + 47% Bread Flour
• soaker + starter
• shaping

Recipe : Whole Grain Bread by Peter Reinhart
Learning Lessons:

• 35% Whole Wheat + 35% White Wheat + 30% Bread Flour
  
• firm starter
• Herb Oil

Recipe : Whole Grain Bread by Peter Reinhart
Learning Lessons:

• 50% WW+ 50% Bread Flour
• firm starter
• Herb Oil

Recipe: Artisan Baking by Maggie Glezer
Learning Lessons:

• biga with very little amount of yeast+long hours in fermentation
• Stretch and fold                             

        僅管做拖鞋麵包是累積了一點經驗,但不知為何在面對Craig Ponsford 的這個配方時,卻是全然沒有一點把握,不敢對最後的成品有成功的期待,特別是他的biga ,拿1/4 teaspoon active dry yeast 加在 1cup of water 中,卻只取其中的1/2 teaspoon 的yeast water 再加在330g 的粉中,他說這樣的麵團10小時沒動靜是正常現象,至少要經24小時的慢速發酵等它變成三倍大時,就可以準備與主麵團混合來完成這個拖鞋麵包. 我想既然想玩,那只有耐心對待,結果我的biga 至少等了近36hrs 才有三倍大,可是這  biga 的香氣真的好特別,對我而言,這樣的香氣就像熟透的香蕉香,雖發了36hrs ,biga 麵團裡雖有裸麥,全麥,但卻一點酸味都聞不出,反正跟我用酵種去做的又是完全不同的香氣.
     漫長耐心的等待,是值得地,就像書上這麼寫到”bake the breads until very,very dark brown all around” ,看來這回的麵包沒砸鍋, 而且在試過這樣的配方後,它會是一個常留在我家的拖鞋麵包.

                                 Mixing and Kneading
                                 Shaping

Learning Lessons:
                         Different baking methods
                         Shaping  &  Scoring 

Feb_08 的Cook’s Illustrated 把前一陣子很受爭議的 Nov_06 New York Times  No Knead Bread 再度提出來做延伸討論,把原先那個配方的一些問題_如水份高不好操作,麵包本身少了風味,做了一些實驗性的修正, 而有了Almost no knead bread 的配方.

而我把這個Almost no knead bread 的配方也再做一些修改, 原先配方中是用啤酒(mild_flavored lager) 跟醋來增加風味,因家有酵種就用它來發揮. 而揉麵的部分呢則改成stretch and fold .

另外呢!烤這類脆皮麵包遇到最大的瓶頸之一就是沒法在麵包皮的部分看到非常漂亮的氣泡的痕跡,或是很自然的裂痕, 蒸汽如何制造的好又巧又適當又不希望太傷到電爐,還有操作安全上的考慮, 好像真的不是件太容易的事,於是想試試類似這樣的烤法, 於是在熱爐的同時把小模 裡放幾個小石同熱, 等要烤時把麵包送入爐後,加幾塊冰塊在小模裡並倒摳一個不銹鋼鍋在麵包跟小模上.

那這就是今天的廚房實驗的成品-Almost no knead bread_Cranberry_Walnut  Bread, Olive,Rosemary & Cheese Bread.   皮的部分_氣泡的痕跡跟裂痕 好像有一點進步,不過這個部分要在多試幾次才能比成效.另皮比過往要薄,是因為這次是類似La Cloche Brick Oven的烤法, 內部組織的部分_ Oven Spirng 的還不錯,氣孔不像上次那樣大,主要原因是這個配方的水量比原來的少.  Olive,Rosemary & Cheese Bread 裡的cheese 原來是用grated parmesan, 我把它改為 parmigiano reggiano + pecorino romano 那就吃起來更換有 nutty flavor 嘍!

小人的評語: 馬麻請你下次把olive 切大塊一點,這樣才吃得到它的滋味.
馬麻問:甜,鹹 你喜歡那種?
小人答: ,鹹的.

!

下酒,或配茶都好的小點_茴香豆, 乾蠶豆是在超市裡的老墨雜貨區找到的.泡過水後, 拿適量的水跟豆先大火煮一下,再加入適量的鹽,大小茴香,桂皮, 山奈 ,小火煮到皮略鄒,而五香味也打表皮進入豆肉的程度時就可起鍋. 其實這個小點就算不下酒或配茶,光當零嘴也是很棒的.

Fougasse, 是參考Baking with Julia 跟 The Bread Baker's Apprentice 裡的配方跟作法,另外加入我家的酵寶而做成的.  因這個配方的作法是需長時間的冷藏發酵,所以這個麵團是周四打好, 周六早烤成的. 有一個是上面有海鹽跟dry basil & sage, 另一個是有sesame and poppy seeds. 小人跟我提議下回要放rosemary  .   一直以來我很喜歡做不同種類的平板麵包(flatbread), 一來材料簡單 , 就 粉 ,水,油,鹽,酵,有時還有少量的糖,  二來 麵團水份多好打,做好基發後就在冰箱裡慢慢的待著,而麵團從冰箱拿出到室內回溫的同時,剛好可以熱爐,只要時間稍為算好,就能在清早或晚上回家後烤一個熱麵包上桌.  另外因材料單純,反而更能享受 不同的麥香在咀嚼間所帶來的滿足跟感動. 

.至於成品口感等做了以後再另補文跟照片(如果懶病沒再犯的話)

圖下是最近我家的新歡_Barbari Bread, Iranian flatbread, 配方跟做法是出自Meggie Glazer 的  A Blessing of Bread, (只不過我家的包包裡還加了些酵種). 這個麵包材料簡單,做法簡單但是那個麵香,那個風味真是一流,趁熱時後吃真的很難停口停手.

這個是100%  unbleached organic bread flour 做的Barbari Bread

這個是加了30%  organic rye flour 做的Barbari Bread.

K推薦了這麼一篇關於歐式硬殼麵包的文章_The Secret of Great Bread: Let Time Do the Work - New York Times.