January 29,2008

The Leaning Trails for Making Artisan Bread_Transitional Multigrain Struan Bread

Something in between_Sandwich Loaf_ Transitional Multigrain  Struan Bread (with wild yeast starter)

Recipe:  Peter Reinhart's Whole Grain Bread
Learning Lessons:
                                
Different kind of  grains in the soaker
                                 Delayed fermentation method

                                 Mixing and Kneading
                                 Shaping

 



      越讀越做Peter Reinhart 書裡的麵包,越覺得他是一位愛至深的專業老師,姑且不論食譜配方如何,總能讓他的讀者嗅得出他想傳達的一些訊息跟企圖.以他的新書Whole Grain Breads 來說,裡頭有不少的麵包早已出現在他前一本BBA 書裡,但這裡不同的是他把他們改為多穀,雜麥,全麥,或是漸近式的全麥配方(他用Transitional bread 來稱呼), 讓他的讀者們在試作的過程裡去體會並認同他的一個初衷_”To make world_class bread and let us hope, to make whole grain bread that people will actually want to eat- not just because it is good for them but because it brings them and us, joy with each bite”.

      另外我特別喜歡Mr.Reinhart 在這本書裡p22寫到 A bread recipe is, at best, a set of guidelines for getting close to the final version. But making adjustments to accommodate the performance of different types of flour or individual measuring methods requires another set of instructions explaining how to develop a feel of the dough. This is one of the hardest things to convey, especially in words. Many photographs were taken to illustrate how dough should look or feel, but there is no substitute for hands_on trail and error. I tell my students that the way to get a feel for dough is actually touch it, work with it, and develop sense memories of how it feels when it feels right.  It usually takes only a few tries before one gets this sense of feel, and when it happens it is a glorious breakthrough for a baker.  Bingo!!!, Mr.Reinhart真的寫到我心坎裡的感覺﹐謝謝Mr.Reinhart 寫出你的難處﹐而這些難處也正是我這個 home baker 所面對的難處﹐因為一直沒有機會拜師學藝學﹐只能在書上,網上吸收資訊後就到廚房裡去胡搞瞎弄, 細算之下﹐剛開始失敗的次數真是遠遠多過成功的次數﹐但或許是失敗多了﹐也練就了較佳的細微觀察力﹐也較能由失敗裡去享受失敗﹐然那怕只要一次﹐把對的手感抓住了﹐就會發現自己又進步了一些﹐對麵包的了解又多增了一分﹐更能反複去體會揣摩不管是來自網路或書上﹐那些文字或影像想傳達的一些狀態”﹐技巧”甚至”意念“。

       照片裡是一個漸近式的多穀struan(transitional multigrain struan) , 原配方是用加了商酵的biga,我只是把他改為含水來量相同的wild yeast starter ,另外將糖量稍降。前兩天做的Struan 是一個比較偏白麵的土司(只是加了一點多穀而已)﹐然這次就用了較多的全麥﹐不過它不會偏乾偏燥歐﹐口感依舊相當濕潤﹐還有它加入酵種跟商酵﹐並用了延遲發酵﹐這樣的麵包風味﹐真的會比單用商酵+直接法做出的sturan來的深沉豐富哦。  

      單純的個人喜好,分享一點對struan 吃後心得. Struan 是一個很有趣的麵包(土司)﹐它可以是一個“近白土司甚至到100%的全麥土司。就單講“近白土司的struan, 有的白土司裡因加了不同程度的奶(奶油﹐鮮奶油)﹐蛋﹐有了一個非常細非常軟的組織﹐感覺就像絲一般的細柔﹐入口後比較記得的是它的蛋香奶濃﹐會忘了究竟是在吃麵包﹐還是在嘗一塊像戚風一般的蛋糕﹐可麵包本身該有的麥香卻因著其他材料而被遮蓋掉﹐也遺忘了它的body texture. struan就有點不同﹐它是軟卻不似絲一般的細柔﹐它沒加蛋沒有油﹐加了奶但份量不多﹐因此嘗得出麵香﹐它的配方裡有一部分是煮熟/或未煮的多穀﹐這樣不僅增加了麵包的保濕性,同時增添了麵包的body texture, 特別是在輕烤(toast),這塊土司有了兩種相異的口感,剛入口時是薄酥脆,細嚼後變成一個既帶嚼口(chewy)又有點彈牙(QQ)的感覺.  如果你家對這樣的土司還能接受,那阿吉馬給你背書,只要你肯嘗試,這絕對是一個會讓你愛上的好麵包.

        最後連上幾個有關揉面及整型的影片聯結(1),(2),(3),別怕揉麵,揉著揉著會揉出你與不同麵團的革命情感噢!

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Posted by homebythelake at 樂多Roodo! │23:31 │回應(1)引用(0)Bread
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靚包包哦
Posted by Mac at January 31,2008 00:51